Best Fasteners for Roofers

Roofing fasteners hold the entire weather envelope against wind uplift: coil nails for asphalt shingles, ring-shank nails where wind codes demand them, self-drilling screws with sealing washers for metal roofing, and cap nails for underlayment. Get the fastener wrong and the warranty — and the roof — is gone with the first big storm.

What to Look For

  • 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 in galvanized coil nails for shingles — collated for the roofing nailer, heads sized to resist pull-through.
  • Ring-shank nails in wind zones — many coastal codes require them; everywhere else they are cheap insurance.
  • #12 or #14 self-drilling screws with EPDM washers for exposed-fastener metal roofing — matched to the panel color.
  • Plastic cap nails for felt and synthetic underlayment — caps that hold against wind before the roof covering goes on.
  • Stainless steel or copper for slate, tile, and coastal work — the fastener must outlast a 50-year roof.

Top Picks

1. Grip-Rite galvanized coil roofing nails, 1-1/4 in Best overall

The shingle-roof default — collated for any roofing nailer, hot-dip galvanized against rust streaks, and priced for squares, not handfuls.

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2. Ring-shank coil roofing nails, 1-1/4 in Best for high wind

Ring shanks grip the deck so shingles stay put in storms — required by code in many wind zones and the professional standard everywhere else.

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3. Metal roofing screws with EPDM washers, #12 x 1-1/2 in Best for metal roofs

Self-drilling points for purlins or decking plus sealing washers that compress into a watertight gasket — color-matched to the panel.

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4. Plastic cap roofing nails, 1 in Best for underlayment

Wide caps hold felt and synthetic underlayment through wind and foot traffic until shingles or panels cover them — collated for cap nailers.

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What to Avoid

Avoid

  • Smooth-shank nails where code or the shingle warranty requires ring-shank — a failed inspection costs more than the upgrade.
  • Staples for asphalt shingles — prohibited by most manufacturers and many codes.
  • Mismatched metals on metal roofing — plain steel screws on aluminum or copper panels corrode and streak.
  • Nails too short for architectural shingles — the point must fully penetrate the deck, not just the old layer.
Bottom line: Coil nails for shingles, ring-shank for wind, washered screws for metal, cap nails for underlayment, stainless or copper for lifetime roofs. Match the fastener to the covering and the warranty stays intact.

Also in the toolbox

FAQ

How many nails per shingle are required?

Four nails per standard shingle, six in high-wind zones and on steep slopes — placed just below the adhesive strip per the manufacturer nailing pattern. The pattern matters as much as the count for warranty coverage.

Should metal roofing use nails or screws?

Screws with sealing washers for exposed-fastener systems — they clamp the washer into a watertight seal nails cannot match. Standing-seam roofs use concealed clips specified by the panel manufacturer.

What gauge are roofing nails?

Standard coil roofing nails are 11 or 12 gauge with 3/8 in heads — thick enough to resist pull-through in wind, with ring-shank versions for extra grip in the deck.

When do roofs need stainless steel fasteners?

Within sight of saltwater, on slate and tile roofs rated for 50-plus years, and anywhere the fastener must outlast galvanized coatings — stainless costs more once instead of a re-roof later.

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