Types of Rivets and Their Uses (with Pictures)

Every rivet family with pictures — blind to solid to structural — and which joints each one suits.

Pop Rivet

Pop Rivet

A blind rivet set from one side with a hand tool.

Best for: Gutters, trailers, sheet metal

Sizes, grades and uses →

Solid Rivet

Solid Rivet

A hammer-set single-piece rivet — the strongest joint.

Best for: Aircraft, bridges, trailers

Sizes, grades and uses →

Structural Rivet

Structural Rivet

A high-shear blind rivet for load-bearing joints.

Best for: Truck bodies, solar frames, ladders

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Semi-Tubular Rivet

Semi-Tubular Rivet

Partially hollow for fast clinch setting.

Best for: Brakes, handles, small assemblies

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Drive Rivet

Drive Rivet

A hammer-driven pin expands the body.

Best for: Signs, nameplates, masonry

Sizes, grades and uses →

Split Rivet

Split Rivet

Split legs that clinch soft materials.

Best for: Leather, canvas, boots

Sizes, grades and uses →

Compression Rivet

Compression Rivet

A two-piece rivet squeezed from both sides.

Best for: Belts, holsters, folders

Sizes, grades and uses →

How to Choose

Pop rivets for sheet metal and general repair, structural (Monobolt-style) where strength matters, solid rivets for aircraft and tradition. Size the diameter to the stack and always drill the hole the rivet specifies.

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FAQ

Pop rivet vs solid rivet — which is stronger?

Solid rivets, by a wide margin — they fill the hole completely and deform into a shop head. Pop (blind) rivets trade strength for one-side access and speed. Aircraft and bridges use solid; gutters and trailers use pop.

Can you remove a rivet?

Yes — center-punch the mandrel, drill through the head with a bit the size of the rivet shank, and punch the rest through. Blind rivets drill out in seconds; solid rivets take patience and sharp bits.

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